

Reaching the summit
very inspirational
Realistic Read

TRUE SUMMIT...TRULY WONDERFUL'True Summit' is a very interesting read in terms of its research, as well as its historical and archival detail. Its author, David Roberts, is himself a mountaineer and has an innate understanding of the subject matter of the book, which contributes to its success.
I would, however, highly recommend that one first read Maurice Herzog's "Annapurna" which is Herzog's first person, romanticized account of the expedition and the source for much of what is analyzed in this book. Reading it will ground readers of 'True Summit' in the context out of which this book arises, and will make it that much more enjoyable.
After the ostensible summit of Annapurna (more about this in 'True Summit') by Herzog and Louis Lachenal who were aided in their harrowing descent by fellow expeditioners, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, only Maurice Herzog went on to become a national hero in France. The other three mountaineers, all of whom were more experienced and proficient, were largely ignored in what was to become a carefully orchestrated, media event around Maurice Herzog.
"True Summit" attempts to set the story straight and right past wrongs. It also helps to debunk the self-serving, though gripping, sanitized account authored by expedition leader Maurice Herzog. What emerges is a more realistic picture of what may have actually transpired during that fateful, 1950 French expedition.
This book ensures that the contributions of three of the main protagonists, Lachenal, Terray, and Rebuffat, all highly experienced mountaineers from the Chamonix region of France, will not be forgatten. It is a memorial to their efforts during that expedition and well worth reading.
The view from the Chamonix guidesMost moving is the story of Lachenal accompanying Herzog to the summit not because he cared about the summit, but because his professionalism compelled him to return his partner to safety. Lachenal lost his toes and never again climbed professionally.
This is the story of the guides, talented, courageous, and imperfect, whom we can respect and learn from, for quietly rising to the challenge of making the most of a compromising situation. While the the author's own mountaineering experiences in the chapters on Rebuffat and Terray could arguably have been saved for a different book, they explain the spirituality and passion he conveys as he interviews their survivors.
Roberts Debunks a Mountaineering FairytaleThis first conquest of a peak over 8,000-meters (26,240-feet) was for France, then mired in a post-war depression, paramount to Neil Armstrong's walk on the moon.
The stirring book that followed, "Annapurna," written by Herzog, the expedition's leader, has been published in over 40 languages and has sold over 11-million copies becoming the best selling mountaineering book of all time.
For Herzog, who lost all his fingers and toes to frostbite, the book brought a life of fame and fortune. Although he never again did any serious climbing, Herzog became mayor of the famous French skiing town of Chamonix, served as Minister of Youth and Sports under Charles de Gaulle, was president and CEO of several major businesses, and served for many years on the International Olympic Committee.
In the years that followed, most of the world, including France, forgot about the expedition's three professional mountain guides: Lachenal, who lost all his toes after reaching the summit and died in a skiing accident in 1955; and Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, who gave-up their own summit bid to rescue the frostbitten Lachenal and Herzog.
In a 1980 article for the Sierra Club's journal "Assent," David Roberts, an acclaimed mountaineer himself, ranked "Annapurna" as the best mountaineering book ever written. Like most of the great climbers of the later 20th century, it was this eloquent and passionate book that first inspired him to seriously climb. So it was a bitter disappointment when in 1996 Roberts met Michel Guerin, a specialty publisher of mountaineering books in Chamonix, who revealed for him the truth behind "Annapurna."
In addition to an oath of unquestioning obedience to Herzog, the climbing team was required just before boarding the airplane to Nepal, to sign a contract forbidding them to publish anything about the expedition for five years after returning to France. Many of the climbers considered abandoning the expedition but relented. It was to be for each of them, their first trip to the Himalayas.
Near the end of the moratorium, Lachenal was preparing an autobiographical memoir, including all of his plainspoken criticisms of Herzog and the expedition. But after his death, Herzog was appointed tuteur, a legal guardian, of Lachenal's family. Along with Lucien Davies, the most influential man in French alpinism and the author of the oath and publishing moratorium, Herzog "pruned every scrap of critical, sardonic, or embittered commentary the guide had penned," about the Annapurna expedition. The whitewashed book, "Carnets du Vertige," was published in 1956.
For Herzog, sacrificing his fingers and toes was a minor price for the sublime victory that was reaching the summit of Annapurna. For Lachenal, it was merely a waste.
In TRUE SUMMIT, Roberts chronicles and analyzes the controversy stirred by the 1996 publishing of an unexpurgated version of "Carnets" and a subsequent biography of Rebuffat, which also revealed a highly critical view of the abilities and motives of Herzog, now the only surviving climbing member of the expedition.
Until his death from cancer in 1985, Rebuffat hid the negative of a photograph Herzog made Lachenal take on the summit, showing Herzog holding the banner of the tire company that employed him, the company that had contributed 500,000 francs to the expedition. For this treason, Rebuffat was never again invited on an official French mountaineering expedition.
The unveiling portrait of Davies and Herzog begins to ring similar to Ayn Rand's insincerely-altruistic and power-hungry characters Ellesworth Toohey and Peter Keating from her 1943 novel, "The Fountainhead."
Roberts' research is thorough as it is engaging, including numerous interviews with Lachenal's son, Rebuffat's widow and one with Herzog himself.
But what makes TRUE SUMMIT a truly enjoyable journey is Roberts' personal connection to the characters. As a young climber in the 1960s, tackling many dubious assents in Alaskan range, Roberts and his partners imagined themselves being Lachenal, Terray and Rebuffat. This book finally gives credit where credit is due. TRUE SUMMIT is a must-read for any serious armchair, or actual, climber.


AVERAGE REFERENCE
Excellent guide to the highest points of the fifty statesSome of the references are to web sites. For instance, there are two good web sites devoted to the highpoints: highpointers.org, and americasroof.com (neither uses the www prefix). Holmes' book can be used to even greater advantage when combined with the information available on the web. I am happy to report that the people who control the access to Jerimoth Hill in Rhode Island (the Wide-place-in-the-road State) have been convinced by the Highpointers Club to put up their shotguns on four days of the year to allow access to the highpoint. I suppose that we should be grateful - grateful that so many of the natural landmarks in the United States are held open for the public by government ownership.
The book's subject has presented me with some unanswered questions. Why do many states celebrate their highpoints with monuments while some others ignore them? It cannot be a regional issue. Pennsylvania has surrounded theirs with a park while nearby Maryland leaves it to a small but dedicated group of individuals from West Virginia to mark a trail and maintain the highpoint.
Why are so many of the highpoints near the boundaries of their states? I suppose that in the midwest where the land is flat and the slope is uphill toward the continental divide, the highpoints can be expected to cluster on the western edges of their states. However, many of the eastern points lie on state boundaries. Perhaps the mountain ridges helped to define those boundaries.
Finally, what attracts people to highpoints? Why is the summit of Mt. Elbert so crowded while nearby Mt. Massive is relatively ignored. I did find local residents on Mt. Katahdin and also Wheeler Peak who make annual trips to the summit of their highest peak. Certainly, the pursuit of highpoints does provide an excuse for traveling to new places. I would never have gone to Kenton if it were not for Black Mesa. It was worth the trip. I suppose that you cannot visit all fifty of the highpoints without also visiting all fifty states.
Excellent Book. How to get there and how to do it.

dodo
Valuable
Really useful

An arrogant, pompus show off
Return to the summit of ScoutingI do not know why the next review features such spite for Mr. Cass (jealousy?). The reviewer has violated the 4th point of the Scout Law.
I highly recommend this book for anyone who has been to, or is planning a return trip to Philmont. It is excellent reading.
Wally Meyer - Philmont Ranger (1978 & 1979)
Thanks For The Memories

If you like this cult I got a bridge to sell ya!
I Liked the Title....
the lost teachings of jesus

Oh come on now...
Allowance Kit Junior
Don't miss this!!

Two Determined GuysThe seven summits vary in difficulty. Australia's Koscuisko is only 7,310 feet and families regularly hike to the top. Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa is not a dangerous challenge. But there is also Mt. McKinley, known for its vicious storms; Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, mind-numbingly cold and a logistical nightmare, and then the one Dick Bass christened "The Big Mother," Mt. Everest.
This is their story, and it is inspiring. Before it is over, you feel as if Dick Bass is one of your best friends. He combines high good humor, tenacity and perseverance. The man is a modern miracle. Frank Wells is a more reserved, executive type, an excellent organizer with will power to spare.
Rick Ridgeway, a writer and world-class climber, tells the story. The pace is good while they are on the mountains, and the book has excellent descriptive sections on the difficulties of the ascents. Unfortunately, Mr. Ridgeway does not have an ear for dialogue. Direct conversations have all the informality of a voice mail menu. There are unbelievable frustrations and red tape when preparing and mounting an expedition. I could have done with fewer blow-by-blow accountings of each and every hurdle that had to be overcome before the expedition could take place. This was especially true of Everest and Mt. Vinson. The last chapter is the successful summiting of Mt. Everest by only one of the pair. It is beautifully written and very satisfying. "Seven Summits" is a motivating read.
What an adventure
Inspiring but needs better writingYet somehow, Dick Bass was able to do it (his partner was forced to quit before the end). While it's obviously much easier to make a dream like this come true when you have the kind of cash these two men have; money alone won't get you to the summit of Everest. The trials of these two men and their associates in pursuit of the seven summits dream should stoke the imagination and fire the spirit of anyone who has ever aspired to something grander than finding a way to watch four TV shows which share the same time slot.
The writing of the book itself needs some polishing. The recreated dialogue, in particular, comes off as stilted and wooden.
Technical problems aside, this book is a monument to the achievement of Bass and Wells. Let it inspire you. If you've had a dream all your life, follow it. Live life vibrantly, make a memory. If you can look back over the past few months without noticing anything you think you'll remember, let the story of these men inspire you to change that.
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Don't be one of them.


Use it for inspiration, use other books for informationAs a case in point, consider scramble number 74, "The Brothers": The GPS coordinates listed are wrong, ironic for an author that touts her "extensive experience with map and compass and GPS use." (The coordinates are in the wrong UTM Grid Zone; if you assume that she meant 10T instead of 10U, one is off by nearly a quarter mile.) Some of the coordinates that she does provide aren't particularly useful - obvious sites such as the trailhead, the summit and a large lake on the route - while those that would be useful, such as where the route crosses "The Nose," are omitted. Worst of all, the actual scramble description is cursory, as short as the trailhead driving directions.
Consider this book if you're looking for ideas for alpine scrambles - some in here are true classics. If you do buy the book, however, look for better route descriptions elsewhere, and turn a skeptical eye to trip details, lest they get you in trouble out in the woods.
A nice idea generatorMy main objection is the limitation Goldman seems to place on her trips. The hardest climbs are just a little too easy. She would really open things up to another great 50 climbs if she were willing to go just a little bit farther into the Class 3 climbing arena.
Good resource for scramble trips

The Kid who Climbed Everest
Like a letter from an old friendWhat people don't know is that Bear Grylls had just recovered from an accident that nearly claimed his life, after his parachute tore at 11,000 feet during an Army training exercise. After spending months in rehab recovering from a broken back, he decided to follow an impossible dream.
There are few surprises here - you know the ending from the title alone. However, his tales of adventure, close calls, and vivid and very candid descriptions of life in the mountain will keep you reading and cheering him on!
Although his prose pales somewhat when compared to literary classics such as "Into Thin Air", and he lacks the experience and knowledge of legendary climbers such as the original "Kid", David Breashears ("High Exposure"), what he lacks in these areas he more than makes up in his enthusiasm, humor, and love of life. You cannot help but wonder what the older, more experienced climbers he is compared to - or even you - were doing at his age.
Fantastic!I picked it up and was unable to put it down. Maybe it isn't the best piece of literature around but is certainly one of the most honest. I was gripped by Bear's account of events, emotions, respect, friendship and faith and finished the book feeling both exhausted and inspired!
I would recommend this book to anyone that feels they are incapable of achieving anything greater than life behind a desk.